Posted by: whatallisonsees | October 17, 2009

What is this – A Petzl Roc Trip?!

I’ve been at the red now since the 4th of October, and in the last 13 days, it has been crazy how many pro climbers have been around.  Sonnie Trotter, Brad Weaver, Emily Harrington, Lauren Lee, Mike Doyle, Alli Rainey, Kevin Wilkinson, and Matt Segal just wandered in last night and I am sure there are others that I don’t recognize or haven’t seen.  Surely they are all crushing majorly.  As I was pretending to rock climb at the Mother Load in the PMRP, I got to see Sonnie and Emily being awesome on some crazy steep stuff.  It is such a good experience to see very seasoned experts doing what they do best. I can learn so much from watching and plus its just fun.

Man! It has been SO fun these last couple weeks. Since I have a tad stronger than last time I was here in March, I am climbing at whole new crags and trying stuff that was a pipe dream before.  I have changed my mind after giving Chainsaw Massacre a couple more go’s, I think I would be better suited to project something a bit more doable in the less than 2 weeks I have left here at the gorge. I led another 11a yesterday (pictures below) that was SUPER fun. Good enduro training. Air Ride Equipped – each move is not hard. It is just linking them together and pushing through over the roof pull and then you’re done. SO fun!  So I think my new project will be at the end of the same crag that Air Ride is at. It is called Banche, 5.11c. I haven’t been on it yet, but it is crazy long and pumpy. But I think I can totally do it. I am so psyched to go back and try it!  There are pictures below of Paul a friend from Toronto trying it.

The rain has been a bit demoralizing, but apparently Mother Nature is supposed to let up tomorrow and give up 4 or 5 days of gorgeous sun. Ha-lle-lu-jah.  I had amazing pancakes and a crepe made by this totally crazy and amazing Italian dude named Dario this morning. It felt like I was in Paris at a Creperie. Really nice. AND – last night Paul and Raf, the dudes from Toronto made the tastiest steak fajitas. Beans, rice, steak, onion, red pepper all wrapped up in a tortilla – wow, delectable.

I hope all of my friends out there are having a great week. Count down to Africa, Nov 2nd – wooooo!  Gotta get some insurance now.

Hanging out on the gigando ledge of Air Ride Equipped, getting ready for the moves.  Pic by Raf

Hanging out on the gigando ledge of Air Ride Equipped, getting ready for the moves. Pic by Raf

In the beginning of the giant flakes of the long roof. pic by Raf.

In the beginning of the giant flakes of the long roof. pic by Raf.

Having a great time on Air Ride. Photo by Raf.

Having a great time on Air Ride. Photo by Raf.

Belaying good times, photo by Paul

Belaying good times, photo by Paul

Raf giving her a go. Photo by Paul

Raf giving her a go. Photo by Paul

Raf pulling the flakes. Photo by Paul.

Raf pulling the flakes. Photo by Paul.

Raf and Paul getting set up for Paul's go on Banche. Photo by Allison Martyn

Raf and Paul getting set up for Paul's go on Banche. Photo by Allison Martyn

Gorgeous climb. Good exposure for the Red. Photo by Allison Martyn

Gorgeous climb. Good exposure for the Red. Photo by Allison Martyn

Look at them leaves!  Can't wait to get on this. Give 'eh, Paul! Photo by Allison Martyn

Look at them leaves! Can't wait to get on this. Give 'er, Paul! Photo by Allison Martyn

Dan checking out the 12's he'd about to onsight. Baller.

Dan checking out the 12's he'd about to onsight. Baller.

Paul is tearing it up. Photo by Allison Martyn

Paul is tearing it up. Photo by Allison Martyn

Banche. Photo by Allison Martyn.

Banche. Photo by Allison Martyn.

Dan Forgeng being amazing onsight a 12 b or c. Not sure.

Dan Forgeng being amazing onsight a 12 b or c. Not sure.

Dan ballin' again.

Dan ballin' again.

Good work Paul!

Good work Paul!

Advertisements

Responses

  1. Looks like that onsight of a 5.12b/c is Super Best Friends at Solarium.

    SICK CLIMB!

    • totally feel like i should know j-roc. dannnnng – who are you, man? Oo, and I think you are right on the climb. Dan’s the man, eh?


Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s

Categories

%d bloggers like this: