Posted by: whatallisonsees | August 13, 2009

Not more than 15 feet off the ground.

OK, the bummer first.  RAINNNNNNNNNNNNNN!

Since Monday it has been raining quite a bit. And the general loominess of the clouds and humity are kind of keeping things damp. I was fortunate enough to be driving most of the afternoon Monday when I took the pictures below with my phone. The density and closeness of the clouds was so amazing to me. I was constantly amazed by how different each angle of the sky was and how much it changed every 15 minutes. So dramatic.

Rainy SquamishRainy SquamishRainy Squamish

Luckily, I have gotten out a bit to climb some fun sport and yesterday a few cracks in between the rain. Probably the most fun I have had yet was a climb I did yesterday, called Crime of the Century, 11c in the smoke bluffs.  For my non climbing friends, 5.11c is hard.  Well, hard for me at least. Even while sport climbing this is hard.  I have really been wanting to get shut down on a crack, to really see how hard they get, so when the opportunity presented itself when a couple friendly climbers offered their Top Rope to me, I accepted with great pleasure, fully expecting to not get more than 15 feet off the ground.

So, I suited up and tied in and gave it a whirl. And man! Was this crack ever made for me!  I was able to crank up really high feet into the crack and reach really high for shallowish pinkie finger locks and pull. It was freakin’ amazing. I am hoping to go back Friday, climb a 5.9 Penny Lane next to it, rap down and hang a rope to get it dialed so maybe I will be able to muster the guts to lead it??? ahh! The pictures below are of Chris Hill, resident E.R. ish med student, climbing stud and super smart, crazy nice Dan Forgeng tearing it up a couple years ago.

Crime of the Century, 11c

Crime of the Century, 11c

Dan being a baller.

Dan being a baller.

Timing couldn’t be better for the Squamish Mountain Festival this week. I am sure it sucks for other people that came from far away, to attend the fest and get in some great climbing, but for me, it is welcomed rest days and an opportunity to participate in many of the events of the week.


Last night I volunteered and got a free T-Shirt and entrance to a talk on “Local Heros.”  It was super fun, and such an amazing event. Peter Croft and Will Stanhope were the speakers and then there were 5 or 6 films that were shown. Flashed is really supporting some cool climbing films you should check out, especially this one that is a 90 minute guide book to bouldering in New Zealand. Freaking hilarious. Peter and Will were outstanding. Will was funny as heck and so personal sharing anicdotes and stories of his climbing life and travels, and Peter amazed me with his humilty and genuine love for his life and what he does.  They were both differently and equally inspiring.

Tonight is the Steep Shot photo comp, psyched on that. Then Friday is Women Climbers and then I am going to attend a clinic with Will on Saturday. Woooo! Sat night is a TrailerTrash SuperHero party that I am still creating my costume for. Hopefully it will be great.

Another thing I am totally psyched on is some new gear that is on its way to me, or James, a roomate to be exact. Squamish doesn’t deliver mail – crazy, huh? So James will receive at work and bring to me.  Five Ten Genius approach shoes and Sirens climbing shoes. I can’t wait to start climbing cracks with some flat toes. Life will be way more enjoyable!





  1. want pro-deal with 5.10 sooo bad!

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