Posted by: whatallisonsees | March 24, 2009

a real life (plastic) rock climber!

thennow<——- Then, held up by strings

Now, free-wheelin’——->

So this post is admittedly a pat on the back for myself – but hey! every once in a while, you need those!

I was leading super well, mostly without fear until last June when I went to China for a month and somehow along the way, customs stole my lead head. Jerks. I seriously have been without one at all for a lonnnnnng time.  For some reason at the comp finals route a few weeks ago, it came back to me, but then it fled again. Outta nowhere – last night was a BALLERRRRRRRR night for me, with the help of Alex and Ivo from my local gym.  With exception of the comp, I led this narly-ish route without top roping it beforehand.  Very unusual for me; I have been top roping things all winter before leading them.  It was on an interesting wall with some traversing, transferring walls, and roofs, up to this 5 foot overhung roof to the finish. About half way up, i was about to bail – seriously. I was a complete anti-climbing ad campaign. Alex yelled at me to try once more, so I did, and I got the haneous clip. Ah…. victory – til I realized this kinda essential hold and foot for the roof part was spinning like a saucer. Suck! But somewhere I found what I needed to clip and clip and then finally pull the roof to some sucky slopey pinches to the anchors.  I couldn’t believe it. I had done it!

Yes, I know this was inside and I know that I did fall. But I freakin’ led it and this is a significant accomplishment for me, now knowing what to expect, totally having to figure it out on lead. I need to keep up with this and I will start… man, I will start becoming a real life climber.  Woo!

TomorrowGoverner Dodge, I’ll post about last weekend’s Governor Dodge Climbing trip.


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