Posted by: whatallisonsees | March 9, 2009

No Holds Were Barred, indeed

No Holds BarredThis past weekend was the 8th annual No Holds Barred Rock Climbing competition at Vertical Endeavors in Warrenville, IL.  It was a super showing and a fantastic comp!

It is a 4 hr flash format, which sucks because you can get through 1, 2 0r 57 cruxes on a route and it doesn’t matter unless you get the finishing hold, but it is what it is.  My highlight for sure was 1 of the bouldering problems on my scorecard.  It was for pretty high points and it was total rad sauce.  Sit start with a super hand match and rockin’ feet.  Pull up, high right hand to a teeny crimp, so I pulled a bit of mantel to get over and just caught it each try.  Then brought my right foot even further to the right past the crimp about 3 feet. (Good thing I have long legs) The totally stretched up cross with your left hand to a good pinch.  I pulled down and leaned left to cross my left foot under me then right hand out to a bomber two handed flat side pull.  Pop to a high left foot about at your chest. Bump up to a not so good red sloper-ish hold. Crux: No one else did it like this, but since all my weight was pulling down right and the finishing hold was up left, I reached down to the 2nd hold, the good pinch, and pulled in to move my weight left and bump straight up to the finish. It was cool.

So, they called names going into finals and quite a surprise to me – I was 2nd going into the last route.  I wasn’t even going to turn in my card b.c I thought I climbed so poorly!  Iso wasn’t as bad as I expected.  I came out, loved the route, fell cause I was stupid with my feet on a 45 overhang, but still snagged 2nd place in Advanced. I’ll take that.  It was a great feeling. I had worked SO hard, and it was amazing receiving all the support that I did from my gym and climbing pals.  Cheers!

The rest of the results:

Alex Johnson and Greg Padovani both finished the men’s open finals route, but Alex pulled ahead with the most prelim points. Micheala Kiersch took first for women’s open. That lady is baller!

It was a fun weekend, followed by some post-comp fiesta partying with some insane party games. Oh climbers – never a dull crowd.

Here is my go at finals.

Here is a video of Alex’s.



  1. allison – you did awesome, congrats at the competition. hopefully next year, finals will be in the cards for me!

  2. thanks man! yea, pull hard and next year, you’ll be all over it, for sure! see you ’round the crags…

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